Understanding Portugal
Portugal is also one of the oldest countries in Europe, actually the second oldest European capital after Athens, and 400 hundred years older than Rome.
Portugal was established as a country in the 12th century and has maintained the same borders since 1139.
The country is tiny in size, slightly smaller than the state of Indiana. Its Atlantic coastline is 837 kilometers (520 miles) long, roughly the same distance from New York to Detroit.
But small doesn't mean boring. One needs to choose between endless beaches, to endless plains full of cork and olive trees, to rugged mountains perfect for biking and hiking. That's not even including 21 UNESCO World Heritage sites, 12 historic villages, and vibrant cities covered with colorful azulejos, Fado, and of course amazing food and wines.
The best way to understand Portugal is to walk around, without itinerary nor schedule, getting lost and talking with the locals. But a little bit of knowledge about the country's history, economy, politics and "futebol", offers not only a more solid perspective but also lots of topics to discuss, and sometimes, to avoid.
Portuguese is spoken by more than 230 million people, it’s the official language of nine countries, and the sixth most spoken language in the world. Most Portuguese under 40 have an outstanding command of English, so communicating isn't an issue.
That being said, learning a few common phrases and words can open many more doors.
This book is useful.
The YouTube channel (and now website) "Portuguese with Leo" is fantastic.
Free apps Duolingo and Google Translate are also great resources.
All the usual suspects from Lonely Planet, Fodor's, Rick Steves, DK, The Rough Guide, and Frommers have updated guides for Portugal, and even specific guides for Lisbon, Porto, and Algarve.
Check out the most popular Portugal Travel Guides on Amazon.
From the Airport
Lisbon has a fantastic public transportation system. Find a vending machine (it has instructions in English) at the airport, any Metro or train station. Buy a "Viva Viagem" card for €0.50 and add some money. €20 should last several days. Most machines accept take debit/credit cards and some cash. Check before starting the transaccion. You can use the same card on local buses, metro, trains, trams and ferries, and you can plan your public transportation trips here.
From the airport to "downtown" takes less than 30 minutes by subway (called Metro in Lisbon) and about 15 minutes by car.
Taxis are hit and miss, depending on the driver and the area.
Uber works OK, but the "surcharges" now seem to be a permanent feature.
Navigating the City
Lisbon is a very walkable city. Make sure you bring very comfortable shoes with great grip. Ladies: leave the Manolos at home. The calçada Portuguesa is beautiful, but also extremely slippery when wet.
Around the City
Simply walk or use the inexpensive, safe and clean public transportation.
There's also a bike-sharing program called Gira. There are also plenty of bike-rental places, including Decathlon.
We recommend skipping the Tuk Tuks. Also avoid the scooters, known locally as "trotinetas", unless you want to spend a few nights at the emergency room.
In Lisbon or Porto you most definitively won't need a car.
Ferry
A great way to enjoy the sunset and a fantastic view of Lisbon from the water. Many tours companies offer this service, but the Ferry is also part of the public transportation network. There are five Ferry routes, we recommend Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas and Belem To Porto Brandāo and Trafaria.
Trains
Take a bus or a train from Cais do Sodré to the beaches in Cascais.
A 30-minute train takes you from Sete Rios in Lisbon to downtown Sintra.
In 60 minutes you can go from Sete Rios in Lisbon to downtown Setubal.
Car
The best place to rent a car in Lisbon is at the airport. All major companies work there.
Make sure to include a Via Verde (like the EZ Pass in the USA) when renting a car.
For road trips within Portugal, Google Maps works great, but a good guide and maps (Michelin and National Geographic) are also a good idea, especially when exploring local roads and remote villages.
Where to Stay
Neighborhoods
Technically speaking, Lisbon has 25 "Freguesias" or parishes. The "Bairros" or neighborhoods don't have a clearly defined physical boundary, but many of them have their own culture and traditions.
Traditional Neighborhoods to Stay in Lisbon
Estrela, Lapa, Liberdade
"Modern" Neighborhoods to Stay in Lisbon
Arco do Cego, Areeiro, Entrecampos, Principe Real, Parque das Naçōes, Saldanha, Bairro Azul, Alvalade
• Check out our walking tour in Alvalade
Traditional Neighborhoods to Visit in Lisbon
Bairro Alto, Alfama, Chiado, Saldanha, Santos, Moureria, Madragoa, Ajuda, Graça, Baixa, Chiado, Belem
• Check out our walking tour in Belem
"Modern" Neighborhoods to Visit in Lisbon
Alcantara, Campo de Ourique, Alvalade
What to See and Do
Architecture
Castelo de São Jorge, outstanding location especially to see the sunset with majestic and unparalleled views of Lisbon.
The Ajuda National Palace was the official royal house in the second half of the 19th century. It presents authentic interiors and important art collections.
The Museum of Lisbon documents the history of Lisbon, from 300, 000 BC until today.
The Roman Theatre features the theatre built on the castle hill during the Roman occupation of the Iberian Peninsula.
The National Pantheon aka church of Santa Engrácia, a grand Baroque building housing the tombs of the country’s most distinguished figures.
Prazeres Cemetery, the only open-air museum in Lisbon.
LX Factory, an old industrial complex now housing a cool mix of art galleries, ateliers, bars, and restaurants.
Museums
Lisbon has lots of world-class museums. Here are some our favorites, in no particular order:
The National Tile Museum (Museu do Azulejo). Located inside the Madre de Deus Convent, founded in 1509 and its collections allow a journey through the history of tile, from 15th century till present days.
The National Museum of Costume. A collection of costumes and accessories from the 17th century to the present day.
For film buffs, the Cinemateca de Lisboa offers the former glamour of the movie going.
The National Ancient Art Museum. Portuguese, European, African and Oriental paintings, sculptures, jewellery, and decorative arts from the 12th to the 19th century.
The National Coach Museum houses an unique collection in the world consisting of vehicles from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries including coaches, sedan chairs and carriages.
The Natural History and Science Museum offers a garden, amphitheater, chemical laboratory, observatory and an old riding school.
The Museu do Oriente documents the long lasting relationship between Portugal - the first country to reach the East - and the peoples of Asia.
Museu da Marioneta, a place where the art of storytelling and acting, one of the first popular art forms, is told like a tale.
The Museum of Fado celebrates Portugal’s traditional music.
The National Museum of Ethnology holds one of the most extraordinary ethnological collections in the world, of over 40.000 objects, representing more than 380 cultures.
The Maritime Museum reflects the importance that the Portuguese navigators brought to the world.
The Jerónimos Monastery, UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983, a notable 16th century work of architecture that became part of Portuguese identity and culture.
The Health and Pharmacy Museum, an unusual experience through 5000 years of history of health.
The Money Museum presents the theme of money, its history and evolution, in Portugal and throughout the world.
The Gulbenkian art collection, bookshop, gardens and open-air auditorium, a very important part of Lisbon’s cultural life.
The Centro Cultural de Belém (known locally just as "CCB") was designed to function as an “open city” to celebrate culture, opening its intensive programme of activities to all kinds of cultural events.
Oceanario de Lisboa, considered the best aquarium in the world by Tripadvisor, in 2015, 2017 and 2018. Hosts 8,000 marine creatures.
Food Culture
This is important to know in advance. In most restaurants, some appetizers like bread, cheese or olives will be brought to you out at the beginning of a meal, even if you didn't request them. These items are often inexpensive but NOT free.
If you leave them untouched, you won't get charged.
Lunch time is typically between 12:30pm and 2:00pm. Peak time is around 1:30pm.
Dinner is typically between 7:30pm and 10:30pm. Peak time is around 8:30pm.
Reservations are recommended for popular restaurants and especially for dinner on Friday and Saturday or lunch on Sunday. Many restaurants are closed on Mondays.
To say that the Portuguese are obsessed with food is an understatement. It is common to be in the middle of a 2-hour lunch, talking about dinner or recipes and/or making plans to visit a new restaurant. Sunday lunch among families and friends can easily last 3 or 4 hours. This is a foodies' paradise.
What to Eat
Portuguese Food
Here we have endless options, from grilled sardines with sea salt and vinho verde, to highly elaborated dishes, and cabrito or javali slowly cooked for days on a wood, paired with a powerful red wine from Palmela, Dāo or Douro.
Unconventional (but fantastic) Wine Pairings
World Food
Lisbon, Porto and Algarve also offer world-class restaurants. Here's the 2023 Michelin Guide for Spain and Portugal
What to Drink
Wine, of course. We are constantly adding recommendations about specific grapes, regions, pairings and even wine bars and wine stores. The easiest way to stay up do date is to sign up to our free mailing list.
Day Trips from Lisbon
Marques de Pombal Palace, an ode to the Baroque and Rococo styles in Portugal.
The Fábrica da Pólvora, cultural centre and a place where Portugal’s recent history has been forged.
The National Palace of Queluz and its gardens are one of the most remarkable examples of the harmonious link between landscape and palatial architecture in Portugal.
The Abbey of Alcobaça, UNESCO's World Heritage. One of Europe’s most important Cistercian abbeys, given its state of conservation and its architecture, symbolic of the order.
National Palace of Mafra. Built by order of King João V, consists of a Royal Palace, a basilica, a convent and a game reserve. Highlights include 2 carillons, 6 historic organs, a library and an 18th century infirmary.
Sintra
Quinta da Regaleira, built between 1898 and 1913 and one of the most amazing monuments in Portugal. If you only have time for one place in Sintra, this is it.
Monserrate Palace, luxurious gardens and greenhouses, bridges, statues, waterfalls and fountains.
National Palace of Sintra, situated in the town’s historic centre, it is an unique monument, distinguished by its outstanding historical, architectural and artistic value.
The Pena Palace and Park, in the Sintra mountains, are the product of the creative genius of King Fernando II and the epitome of 19th Century Romanticism in Portugal.
Bucelas
Wine Museum. Small, but still worth a visit if you are in the area.
• EnoFragments Walking Tour coming soon!
Colares
At the foot of the Sintra mountains, right at the sea, the town and wine-growing region of Colares has long been a very popular summer resort.
• EnoFragments Walking Tour coming soon!
Tejo
• Check out our Day Trip to Tejo
Setubal
Setúbal is an ancient and picturesque town full of historical, architectural and cultural heritage.
• EnoFragments Walking Tour coming soon!
EnoFragments Experiences
We offer 100% unbiased advice on how to maximize your time in Lisbon, while connecting you to the people, places and activities that will help you learn and enjoy the city from a local's perspective.
• Private Cultural Concierge
Explore Lisbon with an architect, photographer, and Emmy-award winning filmmaker.
History, architecture, traditional shops, off the beaten path locations and the best times to photograph them, the most visit worthy museums, among other gems. Each itinerary is customized on the clients interests so you can enjoy Lisbon from a local’s perspective.
Your Cultural Concierge: Eduardo Angel, a Colombian-American Emmy Award-winning filmmaker and photographer who after living in New York for too long has traveled to over 67 countries and now calls Lisbon home.
Prices start at $175 USD per person for a 2-hour private cultural experience.
Please indicate any mobility or health concerns when booking.
• Private Sommelier
Explore the city’s culinary traditions with a world-class sommelier and wine educator.
Explore Portugal’s magnificent winemaking history while tasting artisanal sweets and cheeses. The food and wine selections are based on each client's curiosity and preferences.
Your Private Sommelier: Manuel Moreira, ranked Vice-Champion by the Worldwide Sommelier Association (WSA), and "Best Sommelier in Portugal" by Wine Business International, the International Academy of Gastronomy and by the prestigious Revista de Vinhos.
Prices start at $175 USD per person for a 2-hour private wine tasting experience.
Please indicate any food allergies or intolerances when booking.